Liquid exfoliators are becoming a skincare staple. Searches and saves for liquid exfoliators have risen by 58% in the last year, according to Pinterest. Since the ban on microbeads there has been a shift away from harsh, physical exfoliants, with consumers choosing liquid alternatives when pursuing radiant, clear and even skin.
The role of acids
Acids have been the solution to this trend to move away from plastic and gritty exfoliators. In addition the effectiveness of acids in treating all kinds of skin problems, from acne to hyperpigmentation, is leading to consumers having a better understanding of the benefits of using acids, rather than just being put-off by the word ‘acid’.
The most common active ingredients in liquid exfoliators are alpha hydoxy acids (AHAs) and/or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs are more beneficial to the skin’s surface, exfoliating and minimising skin staining left behind by spots. BHAs go deeper, removing sebum, keratin and dead cells from pores. However it is another acid that has caught our attention…
Azelaic acid has slipped under the radar of many skincare brands, despite the additional benefits it brings to formulas that would otherwise rely on AHAs and BHAs. Azeliac acid is a gentle exfoliant that unclogs pores and refines skin, delivering antioxidant benefits and lessening the factors in skin that lead to sensitivity and bumps.
Sinerga have harnessed the power of azelaic acid in an ingredient called Azeloglicina®. This water soluble derivative conveys many of the skincare benefits of pure azelaic acid whilst also being much easier to incorporate into a cosmetic formula. So why is it such an exciting new ingredient?
Azeloglicina® comes in liquid form and is completely soluble in water. It is non-irritating and brings a huge array of qualities to the table for liquid exfoliation, including:
- Skin radiance
- Even complexion
- Increased elasticity
Azeloglicina® enhances the skin’s radiance, increasing the amount of light reflected by the skin by preventing the increase in skin chromatic components. Sinerga found in testing that after 14 days of treatment with Azeloglicina® 5% cream, skin was around 6 times more luminous than before. This is key for another 2019-20 beauty trend, heavy makeup and contouring is out – fresh-faced, natural radiance is in!
In addition to improving the skin’s chromatic structure, added hydration further improves skin radiance. Dry and uneven skin causes light to reflect irregularly, which results in a dull skin tone. Azeloglicina® hydrates and smoothes the surface of skin, helping light reflect evenly from the skin, brightening the complexion and giving it that healthy glow.
Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its colour, and an increase can lead to hyperpigmentation (dark spots or patches of skin). The natural ageing process, acne scarring, vitamin deficiencies, and sun damage can all lead to excess melanin production. Azeloglicina® inhibits the synthesis of melanin by reducing its production through the tyrosinase enzyme, which makes hyperpigmentation less evident and gives skin an even and healthy complexion.
Youthful skin has an abundance of elastin, allowing our skin to stretch. As we age, we produce less and less, which is how our skin loses its elasticity and becomes thinner and wrinkled. In testing, the use of Azeloglicina® resulted in a significative increase in skin elasticity. This reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making skin look and feel younger and more radiant.
While we focus in this blog on the potential for Azeloglicina® to be used in liquid exfoliators, it has a wide range of other applications, from BB creams and dark spot treatments to hand creams and sunscreens.
Here at Chemlink we offer formulation development as well as re-formulation. Our team of specialists can help you discover the best ways in which to use Azeloglicina® in your products. So whether you’d like to discuss formulations, or if you have any questions about Azeloglicina®, get in touch.